The great wildebeest migration was in our bucket list for years. We have watched countless documentaries about it and know some of them by heart. However, nothing compares with seeing it live – we learnt so many things about the animals’ epic journey!
The migration that occurs between Kenya and Tanzania every year is one of the most scenic and life-changing experiences we have done so far. We arrived in Maasai Mara at the beginning of July to see the first several thousand animals entering the reserve from the Serengeti, seeking fresh pasture and water.
This epic struggle is not only necessary for the very survival of the wildebeests and other herbivores that join the long journey, but it is also essential to maintain the delicate ecological equilibrium of the region.
The great migration is actually a circle
We thought the wildebeest migration happened on a north/south line, but in fact the animals are moving in a big circle, 1,000 Km long. They enter the Maasai Mara in July and usually remain until late September. They move in a clockwise direction searching for grass, crossing the Mara river in August. This is the most dramatic and spectacular moment of the wildebeest migration.
For this reason, August is the busiest period in the park with many hotels and camps fully booked. If you plan to visit Maasai Mara in August we would recommend to book well in advance.
Tip: follow the migration in (almost) real time with the HerdTraker
The migration is not only for wildebeest
When our guide told us that almost 1.5 million wildebeest are crossing the Tanzania/Kenya border every year, we were amazed. What we didn’t know was that around 500 thousand gazelles and 200 thousand zebras are part of the herd too.
Even though minority, the zebras are particularly important because they are smarter than the wildebeest. They are in charge of exploring river crossings and can understand whether there are predators awaiting. They simply check the area and communicate with zebras on the other bank of the river. If they are convinced it is safe, they will give the signal and cross the river with the wildebeest following suit.
Half a million calves join the migration
In January/February, around half a million calves are born in the Serengeti, in time to join the great wildebeest migration. Despite the fact they can already run a few minutes after they are born, they still remain all predators’ favourite food.
You will spot many calves in Maasai Mara as they stay close to their mothers for protection at all times.
Hundreds of predators and scavengers depends on them
Reality hits hard when you see for the first time a big predator feeding on another animal. Sometimes we felt sad for the poor antilope or wildebeest involved but, as our guide told us, predators perform a necessary cleaning process where only the fittest survive.
We have to admit, though, that not all the predators generate the same feeling. The lion hiding in the bushes and ready to attack or a leopard sleeping on a tree after carrying his catch on a branch are fascinating. Even the cheetahs feeding on an antelope are kind of graceful in their table manners.
What really shocked us was the brutality of the hyenas. As true scavengers, they eat everything but the scull. We saw them feasting on a wildebeest, eating even the bones and skin, fighting restlessly with each other for a bite.
Hyenas scavenging a wildebeest 
Leopard resting on a tree after a kill
Without the migration, the ecosystem would collapse
The millions of herbivores that roam in a circle maintain the grass trimmed, preserving the current landscape of the Serengeti National Park and Maasai Mara National Reserve. Without the wildebeest migration, the two areas would look differently and many animals will be greatly impacted.
There is a little human help though. Maasai Mara is not a national park but a natural reserve managed by the Maasai tribe, who owns the land. Together with the county, they protect the wild animals with rangers and a strict entrance rule where only paying visitors can access the area.
Since herbivores prefer plains with short grass, where it is easier to see predators, the Maasai burn stretches of land where the grass is too tall. They do it before the rainy season, so the migrating animals can find fresh pasture when they arrive in Maasai Mara. You will see areas where bushes carry the mark of the fire for this reason.
Top tips for seeing the wildebeest migration
If you are planning to see the Great Wildebeest Migration in Maasai Mara, here are a few tips to help you make the most of it:
- Make sure you go in July-August, as this is the peak time when the animals are going to be in Maasai Mara. We would advise to go in July though, since August is packed with tourists.
- Book a camp or lodge that is within the reserve and close to the Mara river so you don’t spend a long time on the road getting around. You may even get lucky and see the animals from your camp.
- Bring appropriate clothing to withstand the hot sunny days and the cold nights alike and don’t forget a zoom lens camera. For a full list of things to bring, check out our blog on this topic.
- Protect yourself from mosquito bites and the annoying flies that will assault you when you are in the vicinity of the wildebeest herds.
Read more about safaris in Kenya in our featured article on Magnificent World:
MAASAI MARA NATIONAL RESERVE (KENYA) TRAVEL GUIDE (magnificentworld.com)
