Timisoara will forever be associated to the 1989 Romanian revolution because the social unrest that brought down Nicolae Ceausescu’s regime started here on the 17th December. However, Timisoara is much more than the first communism-free city in Romania. It is a city with rich history that stretches back to the Roman conquest of Dacia by Emperor Trajan. You will find fine architecture and a rich cultural background too.
For these and many other reasons, Timisoara will be European capital of culture in 2021.
The city is also known as the first European city to have electric street light and the second to have public trams, at that time pulled by horses. It is also worth mentioning that Eugene of Savoy founded here the oldest brewery in Romania in 1718, Timisoreana, still active today.
Since this is Mara’s hometown, we had the insider’s knowledge, especially as her brother is also a passionate tour guide. So Andre got to experience the city like the locals while Mara enjoyed re-discovering the beauty of her city after so many years spent abroad.
If you are still unconvinced that Timisoara deserves a visit, we have selected for you some of the top things to do to turn your visit in a memorable experience.
1. Orthodox Metropolitan Cathedral
The Orthodox cathedral is a fine piece of neo-Moldavian architecture located in Victory Square (Piata Victoriei), Timisoara’s central square. It is quite new, being erected before WWII, but it is still fascinating.
The interior is beautifully decorated in the best Orthodox tradition, with many icons of saints and a wonderful iconostasis separating the sanctuary from the nave.
If it is your first time in an Orthodox church, don’t be puzzled by the absence of pews which are a common feature of other churches. Indeed, Orthodox celebrations are usually attended standing.
For those of you interested in some history, the best part of the cathedral is beneath it, in the Cathedral’s museum. The entrance is on the right end of the nave, and it isn’t very visible so you have to look for it. We were lucky enough to meet Sister Nicoleta, who welcomed us in and gave us so much information that we spent one hour there.
In the museum you will find many paintings from different religious schools, stained glass icons, books and sculptures. For each and every one of them Sister Nicoleta had an anecdote to share or some theological explanation to give.
Among the many pieces of art collected in the museum, like an ancient bible written on lamb skin, we particularly liked the sculpture of humility. Carved in wood in the old southern Romanian’s tradition, it is said it had inspired Costantin Brâncuși for his later conceptual work.
2. Piata Victoriei (Victory Square)
Victory Square is the centre of Timisoara, so you can’t miss it. It is flanked by the Orthodox cathedral and the Opera house and it is split in two by a central garden and a fountain. On each side there are buildings designed by the famous architect Lászlo Székely, who got involved in the construction of big portions of the city.
The square is particularly beautiful in spring and summer, when the flowers bloom and the side streets are alive with cafes and restaurants.
The fish fountain in the centre of the square is naturally supplied by an old artesian well. This means the water comes naturally up from underground without human assistance.
The Roman she-wolf monument between the fountain and the Cathedral was gifted by the city of Rome to Timisoara in 1926 and survived WWII, communism and the revolution.
3. Piata Unirii
Union Square is probably one of Romania’s finest urban ensembles. It is undergoing extensive renovations that are bringing back the colors and atmosphere of the ancient citadel. The square is surrounded by beautiful buildings and churches and at its center you will see a monument and a fountain.
The Holy Trinity column was commissioned by the city council after a deadly plague left the city to thank God for His mercy. For this reason, the monument is also known as plague column, a feature common in many cities in east Europe after the great plague of 1738.
Curiosity: Built in Vienna in the first half of 1700, it was transported to Timisoara by boat on the Danube, Tisa and then Bega channel.
The yellow church you’ll see on one side of the square is St. George Catholic cathedral. Next to it there is a small fountain, supplied by a 300 years old artisan well 408 meters deep. The water is drinkable even though it tastes like iron. It is a common belief that the water is actually good for your health, so don’t hesitate and drink plenty of it!
On the opposite side of the square, you will find the Serbian Orthodox Bishop’s palace. The Serbian community built this beautiful baroque building in 1747 but the façade decorations were added only some centuries after.
Another interesting building in the square is the so called ‘casa bruck’, an eclectic colorful building designed by Lászlo Székely that hosts the oldest pharmacy in town.
Challenge: find the map of the old citadel among the many cobblestones paving the square. You will find also many other informative panels on the floor.
4. Theresia Bastion
Step back in time with a walk along the old citadel walls in the Theresia Bastion. Informative panels tell the story of the city from the Austrian conquest until re-unification with greater Romania. When Eugene of Savoy conquered the city from the Ottomans in 1716, he ordered the citadel to be razed to the ground and rebuilt. The most important item the Habsburgs focused on is the defensive system, a portion of which is still visible.
The city council recently refurbished the area and where once were soldiers and craftsmen’s workshop you will find restaurants and cafes. The other parts of the walls were destroyed to give way to roads and to allow the city to expand.
5. Piata Libertatii / Historical Centre
Liberty square used to be a lovely garden with dozens of tall trees where locals could rest during the hot summer days. Today most of the trees are gone, allowing the visitors to admire the many monuments and historical buildings.
The square is one of the oldest in town, being among the first to be built by Eugene of Savoy after the conquest of the city. Here you can visit the monument to St. John Nepomucene, a tall statue installed in 1756, but also the baroque old town hall and the military club that surround the square.
6. The old neighbourhoods
Once they secured the city, the Habsburg allowed the funding of three settlements outside the city walls to boost the local economy. With time those settlements became integral part of the expanding city but they kept their original names (Josefin, Elisabetin and Fabric) and styles.
They were founded by different ethnic groups, so don’t be surprised to see remarkable architectural differences between them. We would recommend you to visit these places with a local guide that can share with you some anecdotes, otherwise you won’t enjoy it as much.
You can reach any of the three areas by taxi or public transport, unless you rented a car. Taxis are cheap (2.92 Lei/km or 0.50 €) and usually they are the faster option. The tram is probably a better experience but they are slow and not too frequent.
One thing you should not miss in Fabric is Timisoreana brewery and the Catholic church Millennium.
7. Timisoreana Brewery
If you ask Andre to name one of the best things to do in Timisoara, he will tell you to try the amazing food at one of the many traditional restaurants. One of his favourites is Curtea Berarilor, a restaurant next to the local Timisoreana brewery. It is popular amongst locals that meet there for a drink and to share a platter of mici, small skewers made with a mix of pork, lamb and beef meat.
During the good season you can sit on the outdoor terrace overlooking the brewery. You can see old carts and wagons loaded with barrels of beer, just the way they were shipped within the city walls or to nearby settlements.
The restaurant itself is a kind of museum with old memorabilia and panels describing the brewery’s history. Most of the panels are in Romanian though, and it can be challenging understanding everything.
At the entrance of the brewery stands a giant jug of beer, one of the biggest we have ever seen, which quickly became a mandatory photo place for tourists.
There is another Curtea Berarilor in town, next to Theresa bastions, but we found it less charming than the one next to the brewery itself.
8. The parks
Timisoara is also known as the City of Parks and the City of Roses, so make sure you visit some of the many parks along the Bega canal.
In early summer you must visit the Roses Park (Parcul Rozelor). It is a small and lovely park with hundreds of kinds of roses and other flowers. The roses used to be exported to other countries in the past while nowadays it just entertains residents and visitors.
The Central Park (Parcul Central Anton Scudier) is to the right of the Cathedral and has been recently renovated. It features colourful water fountains, a large monument of the unknown soldier and a walkway with statues of famous Romanians.
9. Boat Ride on Bega Canal
Among the things to do in Timisoara, you can try a boat ride on the Bega canal. The main station is just behind the Orthodox Cathedral and there are water buses that will drop you at different stops along the canal. Don’t expect anything special as the Bega river is quite small and the banks of the river are usually occupied by parks. But it’s a different way to get around if you want to see the city from another perspective.
The river bank is dotted with many bars and cafes where you can eat, drink and enjoy the atmosphere. We recommend having a cocktail on the stationary boat at D’Arc pe mal that’s just next to the bridge behind the cathedral.
